INFORMATION & GUIDELINES FOR THE INSTALLATION OF RECYCLED END GRAIN + PLY

INSTALLATion
Glue Down

ADHESIVE RECOMMENDATION
Bostik “Best”
Franklin “811”

ACCLIMATE
Although End Grain/Ply is kiln dried between 6 & 9% moisture content it must be restacked for acclimating only after the HVAC is on long enough to consistently bring the space to occupancy temperature and humidity. Remove strips from the pallets (being sure to keep thin ends on the strip) and place 25 to 30 strips on edge parallel and gapped so that air can contact face and back. Another 25 to 30 strips in the opposite direction on top of the first group also on edge and gapped. Continue cross hatch stacking upward as high as you can reach. Repeat stacks as necessary. Allow a minimum of four days for acclimation.

DO NOT INSTALL OR ACCLIMATE UNLESS HEATING, AIR CONDITIONING, AND HUMIDITY CONTROL FACILITIES ARE IN FULL OPERATION AND ON LONG ENOUGH TO INSURE OCCUPANCY LEVELS OF TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY. FLOORS ARE OFTEN LAST TO INSTALL AND WHEN THERE IS PRESSURE FROM THE GENERAL OR OWNER FOR A PREMATURE INSTALLATION IT CAN CAUSE UNECESSARY REPAIR. (1) ACCLIMATE, and (2) INSTALL ONLY AFTER HVAC IS ON LONG ENOUGH TO NORMALIZE BOTH TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY. OTHERWISE YOU MIGHT CAUSE A DIMENSIONAL CHANGE THAT IS UNNECESSARY. DO NOT INSTALL UNDER CONSTRUCTION CONDITIONS WHERE DOORS AND WINDOWS ARE OPEN AND HVAC INTERMITTENT.

CHECK CONCRETE SUBFLOOR
Floor shall be depressed by masonry contractor to block depth when using 1” thick material. If cork specified for added resiliency allow for extra depth. For slabs on grade a permanent and reliable waterproof membrane must be within or under the slab extending to all slab edges vertically above surface. Concrete slabs must be protected from outside moisture vapor. New slabs must be cured (at least 50 days old) and dry. Below grade installation not recommended unless conditions equivalent to properly protected slab above grade. Less than 3 lb. retention if tested with calcium chloride.

CHECK FOR SMOOTHNESS
Be sure concrete subfloor is smooth and level. Tolerance should not exceed ¼” (6.4mm) on a 10 foot (3m) straight edge in any direction. Check floor level with straight metal strip on edge. Double check edges and corners. Eliminate any washboard irregularity. All rough spots or gravel protruding must be ground smooth and low areas filled with leveling compound. If tolerance not as specified, floor contractor shall INSIST masonry contractor make necessary corrections.

SUBFLOOR
END GRAIN/PLYmay be installed directly over concrete or over wood or plywood subfloors which are level and well ventilated underneath. There should not be anycupped area or projecting nails. If END GRAIN/PLY is to be installed on existing synthetic floor a 1/4" (6.4mm) plywood or untempered hardboard underlayment should be thoroughly nailed. Over Gyp-crete (minimum 3,000 PSI), apply primer insure proper adhesion.

EXPANSION VOID
Cork expansion or ½” expansion gap at perimeter recommended for walls and columns ½”(12.7mm) to 1- ½” (38.1mm) wide. Place on edge along walls and columns lumber or plywood strips uniformly equal to width of expansion joint. After installing END GRAIN/PLY flush to strip then remove strips leaving uniform void for expansion cork. In aisle
way or other narrow areas where END GRAIN/PLY meets carpet or other flooring the expansion void may be omitted.

DAMP PROOF SLAB (OPTIONAL)
This step may be omitted if you are certain the concrete (or other substrate) is adequately protected from moisture either by its location above grade or by a permanent and reliable vapor barrier under the slab. If there is doubt concerning the effectiveness of the vapor barrier then either 1) substitute Bostik's "Ultra Set Hardwood Adhesive", which is a urethane formula requiring two applications, or 2) seal the slab with Franklin’s Titebond Epoxy #531.

APPLY ADHESIVE
Apply per Manufacturer’s Recommendations If using 1” Solid End Grain, use the following additional instructions:
 Bostik “Best”: Use 1/4” x 1/4” (6.4mm) square notched trowel. Spread rate: 35 square feet per gallon.
 Franklin “811”:Use 3/16” (4.8mm) x 1/4” (6.4mm) x 11/16” (17.5mm) V-notched trowel

APPLY STRIPS (Parallel Pattern)
Use snap lines to start and maintain keep square. Place first strip in corner parallel and tight to temporary lumber filler. Place adjoining strips close as possible to next strip to avoid crowding adhesive between strips. Stagger ends. Tap tight with the metal rake furnished by OL. Be sure strips are flat prior to placement by flat tapping out any curl. If after acclimation blocks are loose to eliminate cracks, carefully end tap blocks on the strip tight with a hammer or mallet and snip excess wire from ends. Alternately, drive the blocks tight against the angle iron Jig furnished on plywood. Continue snap lines to maintain squareness. All adhesive must be kept off exposed surfaces.

CUTTING
Strip ends will be square as received. When you reach a wall or column and need shorter lengths BE SURE YOUR END CUT IS EXACTLY SQUARE TO THE STRIP LENGTH. OCCASIONALLY SOME BLOCKS ARE SLIGHTLY ANGLED WITHIN THE STRIP AND REMOVING BLOCKS WITHOUT RECUTTING PERFECTLY SQUARE TO STRIP LENGTH CAN PUT ONE END OUT OF SQUARE CAUSING A SEPARATION. FILL EXPANSION VOID WITH CORK.

ALLOW ADHESIVE TO CURE 48 HOURS

For corners and other locations where the drum or disc sanding is too close to a wall use an edger with the same grit sequence. Initial scratch marks must always be removed by the subsequent grit. Keep all sanding machines moving to avoid burn marks or excessive heat. Otherwise they will be magnified when the finish is applied. Be absolutely sure no liquids (paint, water, mud, etc.) contact the floor and avoid traffic until the surface is protected with oil and buffed.

FILL OPTION 1
After 60 grit sanding fill using Wood Wise

SAND
Again with the drum sander or belt sander, sand for the second time with 80 grit. Sand for the third time with a rotary buffer (either high or low speed) lightly and quickly using a 100-grit disc or
screen and fourth (last) with 180 grit (see Instructions for Finishing with WOCA oil for 120 grit option). Replace all sand paper grits as required to maintain a clean cut and consistency.

Save the sander dust from all grits, except disc screen, which can be later mixed with oil and used to fill cracks.

After final sanding additional filling may be necessary using wood
wise. Fill and buff off excess. If the floor has wide gaps, fill first by grinding cork into the floors and then trowel fill with the
appropriate Wood Wise latex filler. This will allow the Wood Wise to hold the cork in the joint. Then proceed with the next drum sanding of the floor. This will remove any excess filler from the surface
of the END GRAIN/PLY.

CLEAN
Vacuum and sweep clean. Remove all
sources of dust and other particles from ledges,
radiators, etc. Tack with a slightly damp cloth.

FINISH WITH WOCA OIL

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINISHING WITH WOCA OIL
Warning: Oil soaked rags must be properly stored and disposed of as they can selfignite!

+Keep a box of lint free painter’s rags and a bucket of water handy. Also have a piece of cardboard available to rest tools and wet pads on. Never rest wet pads or naps on bare wood.

+Do not walk in the oil with sneakers, put plastic shopping bags over your feet.

+Once you start this process, you cannot stop until the floor is completely finished.

+Use painter’s blue tape with orange core to protect door frames and base moldings if they have been installed.

+Shake well all oil before and during use. When using color oil, stir and shake well before and during use.

+Put oil soaked rags into a bucket of water or a metal container with a lid as they can selfignite.

+Do corners, along walls and around door frames by hand. When finishing an end-grain floor with WOCA oil, a slightly different finishing method must be applied due to the extreme absorption properties of this type of wood flooring.

 Final screening should be done with 180 grit. (120 grit final screening is an option. With this option the first coat is applied as described
below and then wiped off after 30 minutes. Do not over oil)
 The first coat is considered a primer coat and is done with WOCA Master Oil. Its role is to act as a base for subsequent oil coats. Choose
your starting area and pour oil into a paint tray. Spread the oil with a 3/8” nap paint roller and extension pole. Roll the oil as if you are painting the floor. Coverage should be approx. 110-150 sq.ft./ltr (i.e. a 2.5 ltr container should cover approx. 325 sq.ft.). Continue to spread oil until finished. Do not buff the oil into the floor, as this forces too much oil into the floor and the oil base will be too deep, which may cause later bleed back. When finished rest your roller in the paint tray or on the
cardboard.
 Let the primer coat dry and harden a minimum
of 24 hours in the summer and 48 hours in the
winter.
 The second coat is done with WOCA High Solid Master Oil. Using a 3/8 nap paint roller and extension pole apply oil to approximate rate 250-300 sq. ft per litre.

FILL OPTION 2
This coat may be mixed with the sanding dust from the previous sanding and trowelled onto the floor before buffing it in using a beige 3M (or similar colorfast) pad under a 175 rpm buffer. Remove all excess oil-oil/filler mix. Change to a clean white pad or terry cloth and continue buffing until an even sheen has been obtained and all excess oil removed.

 Let the second coat dry and harden for 12 hours.
 For a third coat, place a white 3M (or similar) pad under the buffer, possibly with a WOCA Polishing Cloth under the pad if a slightly lower sheen is desired. Pour a capful of WOCA Master Oil onto the floor two or three feet away from the nearest wall. Start polishing.
 Polish the floor until the oil does not continue to spread as you pass the buffer back and forth across the work area. The floor should appear
silky with an even look, with no spray or oil droplets visible.
 Pour more oil onto the floor as needed and continue polishing. Overlap work areas to ensure an even finish with no spray residue from previous passes. Repeat the process until floor is finished. Be sure no excess oil is left on the surface.
 The Master Oil will usually pre-harden in 4-6 hours. Allow the oil to cure 24 hours before placing rugs and furniture on the floor.
 Should a fourth coat be necessary, repeat the process of the previous coat.
 The oil must cure for 36 hours before any water or dirt comes into contact with the floor.

+If you must quit the oiling process, pick a logical place to stop. Tape off adjoining planks if necessary before oiling and wipe up any oil that may get on bare wood or you will get a “shiny” spot when you continue the oiling. Never stop in the middle of a floor as you will get overlap marks with different sheen levels.

+Change pads as they become tacky or dirty. You can use both sides.

+Once you get use to the amount of buffer time necessary to do a section, increase or decrease the work area to get a rotation going where you do not have any down time.